Beauty of Joseon review: pharmacist's analysis of the viral K‑Beauty brand
If you have opened TikTok recently you will know that Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Rice Probiotics 50ml is the viral sunscreen of the year. Watery texture, no white cast, suitable for sensitive skin — it is the one I keep in my summer bag. Here I explain why, plus a full look inside the brand.
What is Beauty of Joseon and why does it work?
Beauty of Joseon is a Korean skincare brand launched in 2014, inspired by recipes from the Joseon dynasty (1392–1897). It combines traditional Asian actives with modern technology: fermented extracts with smaller molecular size to improve skin penetration — which is why many people notice faster results.
In my experience it stands out for three things: effective concentrations of actives, balanced pH and accessible price. The most in demand are Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum and Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream, which I particularly like as part of routines for mild atopic dermatitis alongside standard care.
Active ingredients: pharmacist's analysis
Alpha-arbutin: the gentle brightening agent
Used at 2% in Glow Serum. It is a naturally derived relative of hydroquinone that inhibits tyrosinase without its typical adverse effects. It works well for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation — the marks left after acne — and tends to be less irritating. A study in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (PMID 23270905) supports its efficacy on sun spots with a better safety profile than hydroquinone.
Niacinamide: the multitasker
Present at around 5% in several products. Niacinamide helps regulate sebum production, supports the skin barrier and has documented anti-inflammatory properties. I especially recommend it for mild rosacea and combination skin.
Fermented extracts and other actives
The fermented ginseng in Dynasty Cream shows stronger antioxidant properties than traditional ginseng. It is combined with ceramides (barrier repair), centella asiatica (anti-inflammatory) and low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (deep hydration). There is no magic here — just well-chosen ingredients used intelligently.
Alpha-arbutin can lead to rebound pigmentation if treatment for melasma is stopped abruptly without medical advice.
Most popular Beauty of Joseon products: real-world opinions
Glow Serum: the bestseller
After two years dispensing Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum, around 85% of users I see report positive results: reduction in sun spots (4–6 weeks), more even tone (2–3 weeks) and oil control without dryness. People come back to repurchase — for me, that is the clearest sign it works for them.
Dynasty Cream and Deep Serum
Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream performs particularly well as a night moisturiser. It has a gel-cream texture that absorbs fully with no residue; combination skins appreciate that it hydrates drier areas without making the T-zone greasy.
Beauty of Joseon Glow Deep Serum contains alpha-arbutin at 3%: stronger for post-acne hyperpigmentation or mild melasma, but also more likely to cause initial irritation. I usually advise starting with the regular Glow Serum first.
Relief Sun: the SPF that converts sceptics
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics is SPF50+ PA++++. It leaves no white cast, dries down to a soft-matte finish and works well under make-up. I recommend it to people who stop using sunscreen "because it makes my face white" — this formula removes that objection immediately.
Negative reviews usually come from unrealistic expectations (results in one week) or from using brightening serums during the day without sunscreen. Used correctly, satisfaction rates often beat premium brands at twice the price, according to what patients tell me.
All products containing alpha-arbutin must be paired with daily broad-spectrum sun protection SPF 30 or higher.
How to use Beauty of Joseon: routine and common mistakes
Morning routine
Gentle cleanse → balancing toner → Glow Serum on damp skin (3–4 drops, wait 5 minutes) → moisturiser if needed → Relief Sun SPF50+ as the final step. Applying on slightly damp skin improves spreadability and may reduce irritation.
Night routine
Double cleanse (if you wore make-up) → toner → serum according to need (Glow for maintenance, Deep for intensive treatment) → wait 10 minutes → Dynasty Cream. Night-time is when cell regeneration is most active, so I tend to place targeted actives here.
Frequency and common errors
Week one: use on alternate days. From week two onwards: once daily if tolerated. Common errors I see in practice include applying too much product (does not improve results), mixing with vitamin C in the same step (can inactivate alpha-arbutin) and giving up before week four. If irritation appears, reduce frequency and increase hydration.
Never use products containing alpha-arbutin without following with appropriate sun protection.
Who Beauty of Joseon suits — and when I do not recommend it
Skin types that respond best
Combination to oily skin prone to hyperpigmentation, mature skin with early photoageing and people already interested in K-Beauty routines tend to do well. I see particularly good results in post-acne hyperpigmentation (Fitzpatrick skin types III–IV), mild to moderate melasma and non-inflammatory rosacea when used alongside appropriate medical care.
When I do not recommend these products
I avoid brightening products like these during pregnancy and breastfeeding (caution with depigmenting agents), in severe rosacea, in people using topical tretinoids (added irritation) and in those with known allergy to plant extracts. I am also cautious in very dry skin or deep hyperpigmentation, which really needs dermatology input rather than over-the-counter skincare alone.
If you notice new or changing pigmentation during pregnancy, speak to a dermatologist or your GP.
Side effects and precautions
Mild (around 5–10% of users): temporary redness, light flaking in the first weeks and tightness if moisturiser is skipped. These usually settle by spacing applications further apart.
Less common (around 1–2%): temporary purging-type breakouts (often linked to faster cell turnover) and contact dermatitis in people sensitive to botanical extracts.
Avoid layering in the same step with vitamin C (may inactivate alpha-arbutin), topical retinoids (adds irritation) or daily strong chemical exfoliants — leave at least 12 hours between them. Stop use and seek advice if you notice unusual pigment changes or irritation that does not improve when you reduce frequency. To minimise risk: patch test 48 hours before first use, introduce gradually and wear sunscreen every day.
Stop using the product immediately if you notice unexpected pigment changes. Ask a pharmacist or dermatologist about any severe reaction.
The Hanbang philosophy: why Beauty of Joseon feels different
Hanbang refers to traditional Korean medicine. Beauty of Joseon does not reinvent skincare — it translates long-standing herbal formulas into modern dermatological cosmetics. The result is skincare built around classic Korean ingredients (ginseng, rice, propolis, green plum) formulated to current dermatology standards.
- Ingredients with a long history of use in Korea: red ginseng, fermented rice, propolis-rich honey, complex Hanbang botanical blends.
- A pharmacy-accessible price point: premium-feel K-Beauty formulations at a lower cost than many equivalent European brands.
- Minimalist design: clean packaging without heavy marketing claims — the focus is on the formula rather than elaborate boxes.
- No strong synthetic fragrance: most products are suitable for sensitive or reactive skin because they avoid heavy perfume.
The 5 key Beauty of Joseon ingredients and what they do
- Fermented rice: naturally rich in niacinamide, amino acids and peptides. Helps boost radiance and even out tone. It forms the base of Rice Probiotics formulas and Glow Serum.
- Korean red ginseng: an adaptogenic botanical with anti-ageing evidence. Supports microcirculation and firmness. Found in Ginseng Revitalising Serum and Dynasty Cream.
- Bee propolis: antioxidant plus gentle antibacterial action. Its calming profile makes it useful for sensitised skin. Present in Glow Serum and Calming Serum.
- Green plum: provides gentle AHA + BHA exfoliation. Offers progressive chemical exfoliation in toners without feeling harsh when used correctly.
- Centella asiatica: soothing and barrier-supporting. Included in Calming Serum and Centella Asiatica Sheet Mask for irritated or redness-prone skin.
How to start with Beauty of Joseon if you are new to K‑Beauty
A full K-Beauty routine can look overwhelming, but you can start with three Beauty of Joseon products and still see changes within about 4–6 weeks:
- Daily sunscreen: Relief Sun Rice Probiotics 50ml. Use every morning as your last step + reapply if you are outdoors or exposed to direct sun.
- A universal moisturiser: Dynasty Cream 50ml. Use in the morning under SPF + at night as your final step.
- An active serum a few nights per week: Glow Serum (propolis + niacinamide) 2–3 times per week at night.
This basic routine lets you test how your skin responds to the brand. Later you can add a toner such as Green Plum Toner, Ginseng Cleansing Oil or sheet masks depending on what your skin needs.
Comparative summary: Beauty of Joseon opinions
| Product | Main active | Concentration | Function |
|---|---|---|---|
| Glow Serum | alpha-arbutin | 2% | Depigmenting |
| Glow Serum | Niacinamide | 5% | Sebum regulator |
| Dynasty Cream | Fermented ginseng | 3% | Antioxidant |
| Deep Serum | alpha-arbutin | 3% | Intensive depigmenting |
| Relief Sun SPF50+ | Rice extract + Probiotics | — | Sun protection + radiance |
Frequently asked questions
Scientific references
